The cleaning and care of wooden surfaces vary depending on the surface treatment of the wood.
Natural solid wood is the most sensitive and quickly absorbs water and discoloration, leading to stains. Therefore, untreated wood is less suitable for solid wood tables.
Oiled or waxed solid wood is more resistant. Water does not penetrate immediately, so stains do not appear right away. However, since the wooden surface is not completely sealed by oil and wax, liquid can still seep into the material. For waxed surfaces, the wood pores are almost completely closed, which is why wood oil is the better choice for a natural wood climate.
Varnished wood is more resistant in everyday use, which is why, for example, our live edge tables are usually varnished. However, moisture should not be allowed to act on it for long, and hot objects should not be placed directly on the surface. Scratches are usually more visible on varnished wood than on other surface variants.
Of course, the tips for cleaning and care apply not only to tables but to all solid wood furniture, such as chests of drawers, lowboards, sideboards, and everything made of real wood.
Cleaning and Care: Prevention is the Simplest Measure for Wooden Surfaces
Preventive measures are the best way to protect high-quality furniture. To effectively protect wooden furniture from dirt and damage, there are a few simple prevention tips in addition to cleaning and care:
- Use coasters, placemats, or table runners under glasses, cups, and dishes whenever possible. This prevents water or red wine stains on the wood and reduces the risk of scratches.
- Do not place hot pots or pans directly on the table. Coasters, pot holders, or a cutting board as protection from hot pot bottoms are a good solution.
- Do not apply too much pressure! When writing on the table or children are drawing, always use a pad. This is especially important for softer wood such as pine or spruce.
- Protect from direct sunlight! Wood reacts to direct sunlight, among other things, and darkens. It looks quite unsightly if one part of the table is darker than another, so close the blinds in direct sunlight. Alternatively: With windows with UV protection, wood hardly darkens.
- Nicotine deposits in smoking households can also permanently alter and yellow wooden furniture. Wouldn't that be a good reason to quit smoking?
- Strong heat and dryness from fireplaces, steel stoves, or direct placement in front of a heater should be avoided, as the wood can otherwise dry out excessively and crack. Therefore, do not place solid wood furniture in the immediate vicinity of such heat sources.
General rule for cleaning and care: Use cleaners and cleaning agents with caution!
Aggressive substances have a high cleaning effect but can severely affect sensitive surfaces.
If the cleaning agent contains the following ingredients, it must be tested in an inconspicuous area before widespread use:
- Bleach (e.g., hydrogen peroxide)
- Solvents, acetone
- Abrasive particles (Do not use microfiber cloths, they also have an abrasive effect!)
- Oils/fats (Household oils like olive oil are not suitable, as they go rancid and the smell is almost impossible to remove from the wood)
- Acids
- Alcohol
Usually unproblematic for cleaning and care is a damp cotton cloth, mild soapy water, or highly diluted vinegar essence.
Cleaning and Care of Oiled Wooden Surfaces
The regular cleaning of furniture from dust and fine dirt is best done with a cotton cloth or a duster.
The cloth should be dry or at most slightly dampened – not wet. Microfiber cloths are taboo for cleaning and care, as they have an abrasive effect, can cause small scratches in the wood, and can damage the protective layer.
Light dirt can be cleaned with special furniture soap, mild soapy water, and a cotton cloth. Simply rub the dirty areas with the soap, cloth, and as little water as possible. After cleaning, excess soap must be wiped off, and the wood rubbed dry.
After the completely dried damp areas, polishing with fleece is recommended. You should use health-safe and wood-friendly oils or waxes – for a good wood climate and your own health.
Heavier dirt and smaller scratches can be tackled with sandpaper. However, this must always be done over a large area and in the direction of the wood grain. For the first sanding pass, use 120-grit sandpaper and sand the affected area. If the scratch or dirt is no longer visible, sand with finer sandpaper up to 280-grit.
Remove the sanding dust thoroughly with a cotton cloth and then re-oil the sanded wooden surface. Apply the oil generously, let it soak in for about 10 minutes, and then remove excess oil with a cotton cloth. After treatment, you should avoid intensive cleaning for at least 5-6 days, as the oil needs time to harden.
Water stains on wooden furniture are usually light or grayish and simply look unsightly. The best care is prevention – see above.
If it does happen: Sand water stains with a fine sanding pad or a household sponge with a green back or fine sandpaper (240-320 grit), remove the sanding dust, and apply a care oil as described for removing scratches.
Cleaning and Care of Varnished Wooden Surfaces
Varnished solid wood furniture is generally better protected than oiled furniture, but it is also a bit more difficult to treat in case of damage or heavy soiling.
Crumbs, dust, light dirt, and moisture are best picked up dry or wiped with a damp cotton cloth or leather cloth. Then wipe dry – done.
The faster the cleaning – for example, of the tabletop after eating – the less problematic it is. Here too: Do not use microfiber cloths, as these will abrade the varnish.
When cleaning and caring, the piece of furniture should be checked for scratches and small damages such as chipping varnish. The smaller the damaged area, the easier it is to fix or repair. Moisture that penetrates the wood through chipped areas can cause the varnish to swell, and in the worst case, the varnish can completely detach from the wood.
For minor varnish damage, the affected area can be carefully sanded and re-treated with a clear varnish.
Small scratches can be buffed out with a suitable furniture polish, but the polish must be applied sparingly. However, use furniture polish no more than once a year to prevent smudges from forming on the varnish. Scratches can also be touched up with a varnish pen, but the touch-up will likely be visible upon closer inspection. Nevertheless, the touch-up should be done to optimally protect the surface again.
Some stains can be removed without residue with an eraser, and the varnish will not be damaged with careful use. If the stains cannot be removed with an eraser, you can try with a drop of dish soap or neutral soap on a suitable cleaning cloth. After cleaning with the dampened cloth, remove the agent and wipe dry. Use the agent as sparingly as possible!
A general renovation with complete renewal of the varnish is an option for extensive damage to restore the furniture to its former glory. Here it is important that the entire old varnish is sanded off so that the new seal holds optimally and the protection of the solid wood is ensured.
Cleaning and care of wooden surfaces
is generally not "witchcraft", but you should approach it carefully and, if possible, test it in an inconspicuous place before treatment, for example on the underside of the table. And generally, as with many other things: prevention is better than cure and usually involves less effort than intensive cleaning and care. Further tips and advice can also be found in the article from Heimwerkertools.com here
Image source boy with wiper: StockSnap on Pixabay
